It will not come off unless it is immediately wiped clean with a rag and lacquer thinner. Remember to wear gloves, old clothes, protect any areas you do not want it, and a face shield is nice. I then take a air hose and carefully blow it into the cracks and tight areas. In areas like quarter panels, seams, door bottoms, ect I pour some in there, use a foam brush to "squish" it into tight places, ect. But in seams, and areas hard to get good and clean its great. Its not meant to put over loose scaley rust. It works very well in trunks inside doors, quarter panels. Its not a miracle cure but it does have its uses. Royce, Ive had very good luck with POR 15. Go get some evapo rust I have had nothing but great resultsīy Fred Wicker on Thursday, Octo06:27 pm:Įvapo Rust at Tractor Supply $20.00 for a Gallon!īy Donnie Brown on Saturday, Octo08:43 pm: Jim Patrickīy Spencer Vibert on Thursday, Octo05:49 pm: Here is a good 2011 discussion on various rust removal products which include the pros and cons and fears and myths of muriatic acid. Having used it for so long with a 100% success rate, I am very familiar with it and know how to get the most from it in the safest way, however, for those of you who have never used it, it can be very dangerous, so before using, research it thoroughly and if you decide to try it, use with extreme care and caution. As one who does not like the mess, nor the way sandblasting roughens and sometimes distorts the surface of the original metal, I have been a big fan and proponent of muriatic acid for 43 years. It is way too slow and weak and does not remove all of the rust. Take the time to remove rust entirely, using either a wire wheel, bead blasting, sand paper, or what ever works best for you.īy Jim Patrick on Thursday, Octo10:22 am:įrom my first experience with it over 43 years ago, in 1970, I have never liked Naval Jelly. My observation, it's never a good idea to paint over rust. Naval Jelly is not really made for more than a light surface rust.īy Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, Octo01:23 am: If it is still sticky the jelly still needs to dry at 60 degrees or better for a day or so. It can be sanded off but is okay to paint over after removing all the loose powder but it needs to be dry first. Rick, the white stuff you have left on your parts is Iron Phosphate that is left after the rust was converted from the Phosphoric acid in the Naval Jelly. ![]() The pictures on the bottle always looked much better than anything I ever tried it on.īy Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Thursday, Octo01:04 am: I've never had much luck with Naval Jelly. I'm a lacquer thinner guy myself, seems to take off all the crud, and of course, sometimes the paint with it if you're not careful, but sometimes that's what you want anyway, so you can re-do it with primer and then paint.īy Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, Octo07:33 pm: Try hot water and some coarse steel wool rinsing with hot water often. (I did do some Internet research on this, but there didn't seem to be an answer to this particular problem.)īy Bill Alexander in Albion, Maine on Wednesday, Octo07:27 pm: I'm assuming I need to clean this all off before painting. I let it all dry off and - now everything's covered with film of sticky white gunk. ![]() I hosed the whole thing down (as directed) and also scrubbed it thoroughly with sponge and a bucket of clean water. ![]() Remembering what my Dad used to do, I gave the whole unit a dose of Naval Jelly, following the directions on the bottle.Īfter the prescribed 15 minutes, not a lot of rust removal had occurred. ![]() I'm have a set of slightly rusted top irons that I'm going to paint. Model T Ford Forum: Naval Jelly cleanup Naval Jelly cleanupīy Rick Benjamin on Wednesday, Octo06:20 pm:
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